Jeju-do is definitely one of my “happy places”, a no-fail destination, one that makes me smile and happy even if I’m just seeing some parts of it on a TV program. But if you ask me if I have any complaints about the place, there would be one: the lack of a subway system. Imagine how a subway system would make it easier to get from end to end of the island in mere minutes!
I do think, however, that not putting a subway system in Jeju Island is a conscious decision by the government. I also think that its absence is one of the reasons why nature is still very much preserved and maintained in this small piece of paradise off the coast of mainland South Korea.
So that means going around Jeju-do can be done through (a) cabs, which can get very expensive; (b) buses, which means you have to be familiar with the bus routes, lines and schedules, and the waiting in between would suck up much of the time you could’ve spent sightseeing; or (c) rental car, which is a no-go when you can’t drive AND don’t have an international driver’s license – like me.
OR. You could join group tours that use buses, but that means you’d be with a group of people – strangers, really – you don’t really know, and you’d be at the mercy of a fixed itinerary.
OR. You could go on a taxi tour, which is basically hiring a taxi driver AND his taxi for a day, or a certain number of hours, with him acting as your tour guide as well. If you look Jeju taxi tours online (like the ones Trazy offers) you’d realize that it has become like a full-blown legit operation, with many cab drivers also providing such a service when they are called. Mind you, it’s not cheap, but it’s the preferred option for us, and at least we can split the fee, because their rates are usually per cab, not per person.
But months prior to our visit, our other friend had a Jeju holiday with her family, and she recommended a taxi driver to us for our one-day taxi tour. So we contacted Mr. Bruce Hong (that’s his name) via Facebook days prior to the trip to reserve and confirm. When we arrived in Jeju, we got in touch again for final confirmation and, on the day, he came by our guesthouse and picked us up.
The good thing about this is that we got to discuss about where to visit, with his very important input. After all, there are factors to consider, such as the distances between the spots, the weather (specifically the HEAT because hot damn that day was hot!), and what we were actually interested to see.
We had Mr. Bruce for a good 9 hours, and our first stop was Oedolgae, or Oedolgae Rock, which was pretty close by, in the shores of Sammaebong, Seogwipo (where we stayed at).
Jeju-do is famous for its coastal rock formations, and quite probably the most popular one is the Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff, which I am yet to see [insert crymeariver tears here] despite this being my second time in Jeju. During our first visit, we kinda spent like almost an hour looking for it, but either we had bad navigation skills despite the car’s GPS or the GPS itself didn’t want us to see it, but we had to give up looking for it because it was already getting late.
But there is another rock formation on a coastal spot, and that is the Oedolgae Rock, which became even more famous as a filming spot of several Korean dramas.
So we pulled over at what looked like a rest stop-slash-parking lot, then made a short walk following a tree- and shrub-lined path….
…until we came to a viewdeck that affords you this beautiful view of Oedolgae Rock.
Even when we were still far from the view deck and I already glimpsed a bit of the rock seemingly protruding from the water, I felt all kinds of giddy and excited, rushing forward to get a closer look.
Oedolgae Rock is also known as Janggunseok Rock, and it stands a good distance from the shore, surrounded by several other smaller rocks and islets. On June 30, 2011, the government officially designated it as Historical Site No. 79. I’m not quite sure what historical fact is involved, though.
It’s not humongous by any means, but the size is enough to catch your attention. Records say that it has a circumference of 10 meters and a height of 20 meters. The acme has some flora thriving in it, making it look like its crowning glory.
There was something soooooo peaceful and… dare I say “healing”?… about the sight of that lone rock standing there. It looked so proud and lonely at the same time.
And unyielding. Yes, that’s the word I was looking for. Unyielding.
Because that lone rock has been standing there for centuries now, and still remains to this day,
Do not limit yourself to the fenced view deck, because the entire cliff overlooking Oedolgae was designed to be a park, more like a vast view deck, really. Follow the path and you will never lose sight of the Rock.
Oh, what a great feeling it must be to stand atop that rock, lift your face up to the sky…. and maybe let out a loud whoop. XDD
Of course I asked Mr. Bruce if people scale that rock, because I’m pretty sure there are some thrill-seekers and daredevils who won’t hesitate to climb it, but his response was an incredulous look, as if the very idea was unthinkable. According to him, doing it would be nothing short of committing a suicide act. It’s too risky, because there’s also the unpredictable wind, waves and probably even the salt spray.
I did mention this being a filming location for a drama, right?
The drama is the wildly popular Dae Janggeum (English title: The Great Janggeum or “Jewel in the Palace”). This is where the death scene of Janggeum’s mentor was filmed. Notably, Janggeum carried her bleeding and dying mentor on her back until she died in this place.
I can’t remember that scene clearly and entirely, but I do recall it being set at night.
So yes, it came as no surprise that there was a large board for photo opportunities, hyping up the place and the drama.
Characteristic of most places like these, resting sheds dotted the park, where visitors can take refuge from the heat of the sun, or just laze about.
I think this is also a smart idea, because it precludes the need for most visitors to lay out a blanket or mat for a picnic, or do some damage on the grass.
By the way, there is no entrance fee to coming here. I suppose that’s why, on the way in, we met several old folks coming from here, presumably from an early morning walk or even a brisk jog. Incidentally, even parking at the lot across the street is free.
Which is perfect, in my opinion, since the air is fresh, combining the ocean breeze and the clean scent of the trees that lined the paths and walkways. It’s like, one minute you’re at a mountain, then you turn your head, and you see the ocean. Double whammy right there.
I also gotta give propz to the faceless people that maintain this place. Because you don’t see them going about keeping the place clean, but there is no trash or garbage strewn about carelessly. Maybe it’s also partly due to the discipline of the locals and tourists that visit Oedolgae.
Blogging about this place reminded me that I definitely have to check out Jusangjeolli next time I’m in Jeju. And there will be a next time, that’s for sure!
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